Top 100 Journal - 97 and 98
Day 1: The Journey Begins
It’s been nearly 2 weeks since I've returned from a week-long trip to Asia where I met up with both old and new friends to play three courses I thought I'd never experience: Shanqin Bay Golf Club on the island of Hainan, China, plus South Cape Owners Club and Nine Bridges, both in South Korea. When a good friend called me in the fall of 2024 mentioning he was going, I knew this was possibly my only opportunity - I had to jump on it. These rounds were especially significant as both Shanqin Bay and Nine Bridges represented 2 of my final 4 courses needed to complete the Top 100 World (Golf Magazine's 2023 list).
In all my travels, this was the first time I ever put the keys in someone else's hands to plan every step of the trip AND the most complex and cumbersome trip I've ever been part of. The places we were playing weren't outside major metropolitan cities but rather multi-city stops with additional ground transportation involved. After nearly 6 months of back and forth consulting with the group captain, who absolutely crushed the planning, we were finally booked. 9 total flights involved, 5 total hotels, and endless taxi/shuttle rides... But the prospect of experiencing two more courses on my World Top 100 list made it all worthwhile
The trip started late Wednesday night when my very understanding wife dropped me off at JFK airport at 10pm for a 2am flight to Hong Kong. The one advantage of a 2am departure? I was able to sleep through a good portion of the 15-hour journey.
Day 3: Arrival in Paradise
What happened to Day 2? We lost it somewhere over the Pacific! After landing in Hong Kong, I met up with the guys in the terminal. We slammed a few beers, scarfed down some mediocre airport food, and boarded the short 90-minute flight to Hainan.
Hainan is far more than just a "small island" - it's China's southernmost province with over 9 million residents, known as the "Hawaii of China" for its tropical climate and beautiful beaches. Our host for the next three days was General Manager Joey, who welcomed us warmly. After another 90-minute bus ride, we finally reached our destination.
The journey to Shanqin Bay took an exhausting 32 hours of continuous travel. I often question my golf obsession during trips like this, but all doubts vanished upon arrival. Due to the club's privacy policies, I'll limit details about the facilities and focus primarily on the course itself (unfortunately, no photos were permitted).
The hospitality rivaled any place I've ever visited. Our first evening featured a beautiful sunset dinner overlooking the driving range, accompanied by live entertainment, music, and some sort of potent wine that tasted surprisingly like vodka - the perfect start to our adventure. After about 90 minutes, jet lag finally caught up with us, and we headed to the hotel, eager to rest before tackling the course.
Day 4: Shanqin Bay Golf Club
After a solid night's sleep with jet lag surprisingly absent, we returned to Shanqin Bay Golf Club. Following a quick warm-up on the range and friendly introduction to my caddy Amber, I took in my first real glimpse of the property.
I'm always amazed at how golf architects can visualize eighteen holes on terrain that seems impossible for golf. That's exactly what Bill Coore accomplished in 2012 when creating this masterpiece. Shanqin Bay sits dramatically on Hainan Island's eastern coastline, embracing an incredible variety of landscapes - from steep rolling farmland to a broad canyon, majestic sand dunes, and dense vegetation. The routing borders the South China Sea on three sides, creating a truly exhilarating 18-hole experience.
The course takes golfers on a thrilling journey up cliffside elevations with stunning ocean panoramas, then winds through valleys and ravines bordered by untamed native vegetation. There's a wonderful balance of long and challenging holes alongside shorter strategic ones, all following the natural contours of the land. Rather than excessive bunkering, the course relies on the dramatic terrain to create challenge. The greens are thoughtfully positioned across both high and low ground, demanding a diverse array of approach shots.
While the interior holes might lack the visual drama of those along the cliff and beach, they certainly don't sacrifice any playing interest or shot value. Coore transformed what might have seemed like hostile geography into one of golf's most spectacular settings.
The great part about our Shanqin Bay experience was having the opportunity to see the course multiple times thanks to the generous hospitality. A morning 18 followed by a traditional Chinese lunch and then an afternoon 18 holes was the perfect way to kick off the trip. There are excellently appointed halfway houses after both the 4th and 12th holes – be sure to try the soy eggs if you ever find yourself playing there, a simple but delicious local specialty that hit the spot. After a quick shower and celebratory beer in the chairman's office, we boarded the bus and headed a few miles north to the town of Bo'ao for dinner.
Bo'ao is not just any small town - it's known for hosting the annual Boao Forum for Asia, often called the "Asian Davos." Our dinner featured massive circular tables spanning 10 feet in diameter, covered with local Hainanese specialties. The cuisine of Hainan blends elements of Chinese, Southeast Asian, and indigenous flavors, known for its emphasis on seafood, tropical fruits, and distinctive cooking techniques.
After our feast and a few glasses of wine, we returned to the hotel completely exhausted. The adrenaline was wearing off and jet lag was rapidly setting in. What felt like just an hour of sleep later, we were up again, ready to play our final 18 at Shanqin Bay - potentially my only visit to this remarkable place. The weather was perfect with bright sunshine illuminating the course.
As our round concluded, conversation naturally turned to where Shanqin Bay ranked among the world's giants. I didn't hesitate to place it on the same modern level as Sand Hills Golf Club and Friar's Head - high praise indeed. While some critics note recent changes to the 17th hole as a slight downgrade, I personally found it difficult to criticize any single hole on the course.
After another full meal, it was time for goodbyes. Amber, who had guided me through the highs and lows of 54 holes, kindly sent me off with gifts. The people of Shanqin Bay and Hainan were nothing short of wonderful, treating us with exceptional warmth and hospitality.
A 90-minute drive took us back to the airport where we boarded our flight to Hong Kong for the evening. We gathered at the hotel bar, swapping stories about what we'd just experienced. For me, these moments are the best part of any golf trip. While the rounds themselves are special, it's these times at the bar with friends - laughing, telling jokes, discussing where we just played and where we're headed next - that make these journeys truly memorable. We even entertained some bold ideas like catching a 3am flight to South Korea (thankfully, we didn't follow through).
Day 5: Travel Day
After a quick morning and breakfast at the hotel, we got back in a cab and headed to the airport. I found myself reflecting on the theme of our trip during the journey. Was it the world-class golf, the incredible people, or the adventure of travel itself? This particular day certainly leaned toward the latter as we flew from Hong Kong to Seoul, South Korea. After a brief layover, we boarded a 45-minute flight south to Busan to begin our Korean leg.
Busan, South Korea's second-largest city, sits on the southeastern tip of the Korean Peninsula. Known for its beaches, mountains, and temples, it's a vibrant coastal metropolis with a distinctive character quite different from Seoul. We checked into our hotel, shared a quick laugh on the group text about the accommodations, and then it was lights out, preparing for what awaited us.
Day 6-7: South Cape Owners Club
While South Cape Owners Club wasn't on the Top 100 list (though one could easily argue it belongs there), this was the stop on the trip I was most looking forward to. During my Japan trip in November, I had the extraordinary opportunity to play with the architect of South Cape's clubhouse while at Tokyo Golf Club. Ever since that day, I found myself constantly looking at photos of this marvel, eager to experience it firsthand.
We boarded the shuttle bus from our hotel and started the two-hour journey to Namhae in Gyeongsangnam Province. The last 45 minutes of the drive provided a breathtaking backdrop, with tantalizing glimpses of ocean and mountains giving us a sneak peek of what to expect. Pulling into South Cape Owners Club rivals the arrival experience of any prestigious club in America. The clubhouse is dramatically perched high above the landscape, and as you approach, you're drawn to the edge where the world seems to open up before you - revealing a panoramic vista that I'll never forget.
South Cape Owners Club is truly extraordinary, offering ocean views from all 18 holes - a remarkable feat accomplished by renowned architect Kyle Phillips in 2013. This visual spectacle is possible because the property sits atop a vast cliff high above the Namhae Sea, near the southern tip of the Korean Peninsula.
There are few courses that just really take your breath away from the views they provide. A few that come to mind that I've had the privilege to play would be Kawana (Fuji) in Japan, Cape Kidnappers in New Zealand, and Old Head Golf Links in Ireland. South Cape Owners Club has quickly slipped in and rounded out the Mt. Rushmore of courses that just make you say "WOW" every time you step on a new tee box.
The course represents the vision of Korean fashion designer JB Chung, who pursued his dream despite being told it was impossible.
What resulted is not just a world-class golf course but a complete luxury experience. The course layout brilliantly utilizes the dramatic coastal terrain, with holes that dance along clifftops and offer constantly changing perspectives of the sea below. Phillips, known for his work at Kingsbarns in Scotland and Yas Links in Abu Dhabi, masterfully incorporated the natural landscape into a design that feels both harmonious with its surroundings yet boldly dramatic.
A particular highlight comes after the 15th green, where players encounter a sharp-edged triangular structure featuring perfect grass and glass. Imagine approaching what appears to be the bow of a ship, with nothing but sky and sea beyond, only to discover wooden steps leading underneath to a stunningly modern tea house. This architectural marvel features floor-to-ceiling glass walls, polished wooden flooring, and minimalist furniture creating an almost space-age atmosphere - a perfect midpoint respite to absorb the incredible surroundings.
South Cape is known for its impeccable taste throughout the property. Pay special attention to the designer furniture and exquisite artwork scattered across the resort. The most incredible spot might be owner JB Chung's favorite – a 5,000-square-foot music library complete with a Stradivarius violin and an impressive collection of vintage vinyl records. The attention to aesthetic detail here rivals any luxury destination I've visited.
The entire South Cape experience created an unforgettable destination that perfectly blended world-class golf with extraordinary architecture and hospitality. After a traditional Korean BBQ where we cooked perfectly cubed steak with all the fixings right at our table, we headed down to the wine cellar for a nightcap. The club's vice chairman had traveled all the way from Seoul just to raise a glass with us - another testament to the remarkable hospitality and how deeply Asian culture values its visitors.
The next morning offered us a final glimpse of South Cape before packing our bags for our final destination. Like Shanqin Bay, I was thoroughly impressed but also melancholic, wondering if this would be my only visit to this wonderful property. After a quick lunch, we boarded the shuttle bus and headed to the airport. Originally scheduled to stay in Busan again that evening, some collective decision-making led us to scrap that plan and head directly to Jeju Island for the final leg of our journey.
Day 8-9: Nine Bridges
The final leg of our trip began with a leisurely morning start, a hearty breakfast, and the group ready to tackle our last golfing destination. The weather on Jeju Island was brisk with temperatures in the low 50s - perfect for golf.
Nine Bridges, established in 2001 and designed by Ron Fream and David Dale, sits in a tranquil setting on Jeju Island, South Korea's largest island and a popular tourist destination known for its volcanic landscape. The course is masterfully carved into pine-covered rolling terrain in the shadow of Mount Halla, the nation's tallest peak. Nine Bridges seamlessly integrates natural elements like lakes, creeks, and wooded slopes into its design, creating both beauty and strategic variety.
Some of the notable holes include the second, featuring a Redan-like design that many consider the property's most impressive par-3. Another standout is the uphill par-4 eighth. Though potentially reachable from the tee, the island winds and clever land contours make the skyline green an elusive target to hit and hold from any distance. Perhaps most spectacular is the island-green 18th, arguably the most photographed hole in Korea – and for good reason. This stunning land mass presents a serious challenge for any golfer who dares to play the hole too aggressively, creating a dramatic finish to the round.
The course's name derives from the eight stone bridges that span the water features throughout the property, creating both visual interest and strategic elements that players must navigate during their round. The ninth bridge isn't something you'll find while playing - it's a metaphorical connection between the club, its members, and the game of golf itself. Funny enough, I managed to capture 7 of the 8 bridges in photos but failed to find the 8th!
Like traditional Japanese locker rooms, Nine Bridges had onsen baths which I gladly partook in. After a quick refresh, it was time to prepare for what would be an eight-course dinner in the glass atrium. Hospitality is clearly of paramount importance in Asian culture, and this time the CEO of Nine Bridges and Haesley joined us for dinner to discuss the history of the club and their new property built just south of Seoul, Haesley Nine Bridges. After dinner, we ended the night with a quick nightcap alongside a few other visiting guests, sharing stories about our golfing adventures. Another aspect I love about these travels is running into other groups and discovering where they've been and where they're headed next.
Day 10: Final Round and Journey Home
I decided to move my flight up to catch a flight back to the States that evening, so the final round was cut short to only 9 holes. After lipping out my birdie putt on the 9th, it was time to say goodbye to everyone and wish them safe travels home.
The journey back was as grueling as the outbound trip. Arriving at Jeju airport, I boarded a short flight back to Seoul. I landed at Gimpo airport, which serves primarily domestic Korean flights. A 45-minute subway ride later, I finally reached Incheon International Airport. Sitting at gate 33, I couldn't help but look back at the photos taken along the way. It's interesting how trips that take so long to plan pass by in a flash. The beautiful golf I was blessed to witness, the amazing hospitality I was shown, and the lifelong memories I'll cherish are all the reasons why I pursue these adventures.
Twenty-three hours later, I landed at Newark (EWR) where my very understanding wife greeted me with a smile and a hug. The first thing she always asks is, "Well, was it worth it?" And I always say, "I'm so tired, wow..." I pause, wait, and then add, "Yeah, it really was."
Why I love this game...
